TrAIN Open Lecture: Dr Djurdja Bartlett - The Ethnic, The Cosmopolitan, The Modernist: Russian and Parisian Fashions in the Early Twentieth-Century

Open Lecture

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Nataliia Goncharova, White dress with decorative insert, 1913, The State Tretyakov Gallery, Inv. R – 4403

The lecture addresses the relationship between the ethnic, the cosmopolitan and the modernist arts in the cultural landscape of early twentieth century Europe, investigating the meanings and practices of these categories in the field of fashion.

The lecture focuses on the activities of Russian fashion designer Nadezhda Lamanova, Russian artist Nataliia Goncharova, and French fashion designer Paul Poiret in relation to his 1911 visit to Russia. Relying on a reading of Russian pre-1917 arts and applied arts journals, picture weeklies, women’s magazines, and contemporary memoirs, the lecture contextualizes Lamanova’s and Poiret’s fashion designs, and Goncharova’s art within the contemporary Russian and European modernist arts and applied arts movements, observing their activities through their varied engagement with the ethnic and the cosmopolitan.

Dr. Djurdja Bartlett is Reader in Histories and Cultures of Fashion at the London College of Fashion, UAL. She is author of FashionEast: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism (MIT Press, 2010) and editor of the volume on East Europe, Russia and the Caucasus in the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion (2010). Bartlett’s forthcoming monograph European Fashion Histories: Style, Society and Politics, 1912-2012 (Bloomsbury Academic, 2017) has been funded by the AHRC Fellowship grant.

TrAIN will be hosting drinks and nibbles in the Green Room after the event.

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